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The below is in not way the only way to train, but it is the way I have found to work best.
MY PHILOSOPHY ON TRAINING
When teaching new behaviors & obedience commands, I use markers (either a clicker or the word YES - must do this within 1 second of behavior) and offer food as a reward. I do not start using the the command until they understand the behavior.
Once puppies are of age to understand right from wrong, I begin using No as a reinforcement marker. It is important to provide Ridgebacks with structure, training, and affection.
POTTY MAT TRAINING
All our puppies will have been given the same litter box training, some pick it up faster than others. Pee signs are more subtle but when they need to poo, most of them start running around awkwardly which is when I gently guide them to the correct spot and once they start going I calmly say good potty or poop repeatedly until they are done going. As soon as they start to stand up I say excitedly yes good potty or poop and give them a treat. If I catch them going else where I firmly say no bad pee or poop and move them to the correct spot where I try and block them with my feet from leaving until they go. Once they start going again say good potty and again reward when complete. I immediately clean any mess they made outside the potty spot.
To help them go in the correct spot, you can take a small piece of poo and wrap in a paper towel or piece of potty pad so it doesn't make a mess and smash, then burry it.
All puppies from Spring 2022 litter are fully litter box trained with wood pellets
PRODUCTS
OUT! GO HERE ATTRACTANT spray that mimics the smell and spray the pad or the area outside in which you want them to use for their bathroom
KIRKLAND POTTY MATS purchased from costco and by far have the best price
PELLETS I use locally sourced all natural soft wood pellets for burning
SCHEDULES
For the easiest time training your puppy, be sure and set a schedule for your puppy.
At 8/9 weeks they are being fed 3 times daily. Every time they wake up they almost always have to go potty, and are pooing 3-5 times per day.
They are all fully kennel trained and sleeping a minimum of 7 hours in crates without potty breaks or accidents
They are fed when they wake up, lunch time and around 6pm
FEEDING
Each puppy receives one meal per day through hand feeding and training/luring.
At 8 weeks of age, I begin to introduce food manners, meaning when we eat all must sit and wait before they can eat. To do this I simply hold the food until they offer the behavior and look up at me, then I will set the food on the floor behind my feet so I can block if needed. The puppies must then sit again and look up at me before they are allowed to eat. Once all are sitting and looking, I release them with the word "OK" and I step away from their food.
FEEDING IN THE CRATE
Feeding in the crate is a good option if you have multiple dogs. It helps prevent any kind of food aggression and assures each dog eats their own. It also helps turn the crate into a positive place.
PREVENTING FOOD AGGRESSION
I strongly recommend getting your puppy used to having different people, objects and other animals nearby when they eat. When feeding, I will slowly add more food to their bowl & not give it all at first to help them associate my hand coming near the bowl as positive. I will also have another dog walk by and put more food in the bowl at the same time and switch between giving the other dog a few pieces of kibble and putting some in their bowl. When I put it in their bowl, I will stir my hand around a bit. You can also pick up the bowl, move it and ask them to sit again before giving it back, when I start this method, I will either take it when its almost empty and and more before giving back, or will add something extra tasty to it.
FEEDING TO TRAIN
Personally, my favorite way to feed is through training, especially with a new puppy as it will really help strengthen your bond. Meal time is a great time to train, you can use their kibble as treats and work on basic obedience such as sit, down, place, recall, leave it, and much more. This prevents over feeding by training with treats. I typically save high value rewards for harder tasks to learn, or using as positive association when overcoming fears and/or luring if the kibble isn't more interesting than their environment. This method really helps build a strong bond with your puppy and generally doesn't allow the puppy to become food aggressive (at least to humans). Incorporate training & feeding around other animals to prevent becoming food aggressive toward animals.
CRATES
Contrary to today's popular belief, crate training should be a positive thing for your pup. It mimics a den which is natural and gives your puppy a safe place. The crate should NEVER be used as a punishment.
CRATE TRAINING
All your pups should come home and be willing to go in crate at night and able to stay in all night without issue (up to 7 hours). Continue saying "YES, Good KennelUp" and reward with a treat every time they go into the kennel until they are happy to offer the behavior consistently. They will likely whine when left for a few minutes as they are in brand new enviornments, but it is crucial NOT to open the door when they are whining, or you will reinforce the behavior. They all understand the word "NO" so if they start whining simply say No and ignore them. As soon as they settle or at least stop whining say "YES" give them a high value reward (something better than kibble) and let them out.
USING CRATE TO HELP POTTY TRAIN
Your puppy is sleeping roughly 16 hours a day as is, so use the crate to your advantage. Any time you are not actively watching or playing with them, let them be in the crate or hang out in a puppy proof area in which you don't care if they soil (Ex-Unless you've signed up for a specific puppy training program, the pups hang out in a 140sqft puppy pen once they outgrow my office that has three areas that are visually separated. The large main area is for play and the other two are for going potty and sleeping). Every time they wake up and/or come out of their crate, take them out to potty. If they don't go, I put them back in the crate for about 20 minutes then try again, and will repeat this as many times as necessary. Once they have gone, reward & let them play and/or eat, if they drink an excessive amount of water I'll do an extra potty break before they start to fall back asleep. Once they start getting tired again, I will lead them back into the crate with a treat and let them take their nap in the crate.
LEASHES, COLLARS, HARNESSES
Leash Pressure Introduction
Every one of my puppies was at least exposed to leash pressure. Each puppy was able to walk at least 20 feet on the leash in a strait(ish) line.
Do not simply put a leash on your pup and expect them to walk when you pull, they will naturally pull back. Let them run around a bit with a leash so they get used to it (under supervision of course), especially if you start using a heavier leash. Once they get used to it, simply hold gentle pressure on the leash, hold a treat and call them (do not pull them). As soon as they start coming toward you, mark the behavior and reward. You can also use a lure and hold the leash (without letting it get tight) and lure them around to help them get used to it. (video on my youtube page of this process)
Harnesses - I do not recommend harnesses for general walking. I use them but not if I expect my dogs to walk politely next to me. A harness naturally causes your dog to want to pull (some dogs will walk on front clip harnesses without pulling).
Retractable Leashes - Get a high quality one as ridgebacks can easily snap them. I will not use a retractable leash on my dogs collar or for any type of training as it is confusing to them and is always administering some kind of leash pressure. I only use them on their harness when I'm ok with them walking far ahead of me and don't mind if they lead me and sometimes pull.
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